If you’ve scrolled through Pinterest or flipped through a home decor mag lately, you’ve seen them: those gorgeous, raw, slightly moody cement candle holders. They look like they cost a fortune and were shipped here from some minimalist design house in Scandinavia.
But here’s the dirty little secret of the design world—cement is basically glorified rock dust. And rock dust is cheap. 😀
I’ve been messing around with concrete for a few years now, mostly making planters that weigh as much as a small toddler, and I’ve learned a thing or two. So, grab a mask (because we’re not trying to inhale moon dust today), and let’s walk through 6 DIY Cement Candle Holders for Industrial Style that are actually easy enough for a weekend project.
Why Cement? (Besides the Obvious Cool Factor)
Ever wondered why this material works so well in modern homes? It’s not just because it’s trendy. Cement has this incredible ability to ground a space. It adds texture and weight—literally and figuratively.
IMO, the best part is the imperfection. You can’t screw it up. If it cracks? That’s character. If it’s got air bubbles? That’s texture. We’re not building a rocket here; we’re building vibe.
Before we dive into the projects, a quick FYI: Safety first. Cement is alkaline and can be harsh on your skin. Wear gloves. Seriously, don’t learn the hard way like I did. Dry, cracked hands for a week is not a good look.
Project 1: The Classic Geometric Pillar
This is the “gateway drug” of cement projects. It’s simple, looks sharp, and teaches you the basics of mixing and pouring.
What You’ll Need
- Quick-set cement mix (I prefer a fine-grain sand mix for a smoother finish)
- Water
- Disposable containers for mixing
- A mold: Here’s the trick—a Pringles can or a tall plastic cup works perfectly.
- A smaller container to create the candle cavity (a shot glass or a smaller plastic cup)
- Cooking spray (our mold release hero)
The Process
First, spray the inside of your tall mold (the Pringles can) with cooking spray. Do the same to the outside of the smaller cup. We want these guys to separate later without a fight.
Mix your cement. The goal is a “brownie batter” consistency. Too runny and it’s weak; too thick and it won’t settle right. Pour the mix into the big mold until it’s about an inch from the top.
Now, here’s the nerve-wracking part. Take your smaller cup (the one sprayed with oil) and press it down into the center of the wet cement. You want the bottom of the small cup to sit about an inch above the bottom of the big mold. Hold it there for a minute. If you let go, it might float or tilt.
FYI, you can use a little tape across the top to hold the inner cup in place. Let it cure for 24 hours. Then, peel away the outer mold and gently pull out the inner one. Boom. You’ve got a geometric pillar.
Project 2: The Raw-Edge Tealight Holder
These are my absolute favorite because they look like you mined them from the earth yourself. They’re rustic, industrial, and take about 10 minutes of actual work.
Thinking Outside the Box (Literally)
Forget fancy molds. We’re going to use the sand casting method.
- Grab a box or a tub and fill it with damp sand. Not wet, just damp enough to hold its shape.
- Take a tealight (the actual candle) and press it into the sand, base-down, to create a perfect circular impression.
- Wiggle it out gently.
- Mix your cement and carefully spoon it into the hole you just made.
- Let it set.
The cement will take on the texture of the sand. When you pop them out, they have this rough, organic edge that looks amazing next to the smooth wax of a candle. It’s like yin and yang, baby.
Project 3: The Stacked “Brutalist” Blocks
Brutalism gets a bad rap. People think it’s just cold, grey government buildings. But in small doses? It’s stunning.
Building Blocks
For this one, you’re going to make a few small rectangular blocks. You can use silicone ice cube trays (the big square ones) or even small cardboard boxes lined with plastic wrap.
Make a bunch of these blocks in different sizes. Let them cure hard. Then, you’ve got two options:
- The Drill Method: Once the blocks are dry, use a masonry drill bit (slow speed, no hammer action!) to drill a hole in the top big enough for a taper candle.
- The Stack: Just stack the blocks in a tower and place a tealight on top. The rough-hewn look of the stack is the star of the show here.
Project 4: The Embedded Object (Fored vs. Concrete)
This is where we get a little artsy. Concrete doesn’t have to be alone. It loves company.
Mixing Materials
Take a wider mold (like a small Tupperware container). Pour a thin layer of cement in the bottom. While it’s still wet, place objects down.
What kind of objects?
- Nuts and Bolts: For that hardcore industrial look.
- Small River Rocks: For an organic, Japanese garden vibe.
- Twine or Rope: A soft touch against the hard cement.
Once your objects are placed, carefully pour the rest of the mix over them. Let it cure. When you demold it, you’ll have a candle holder with “fossils” embedded in it. I did one with old guitar picks once (don’t ask), and it looked surprisingly cool. :/
Project 5: The “Found Object” Mold
Why buy a mold when the world is full of them? Look in your recycling bin.
Upcycle Everything
- Milk Cartons: Perfect for tall, skinny holders.
- Yogurt Cups: Great for wider, shorter votives.
- Plastic Bottles: Cut them in half to create interesting, curved shapes.
The key here is flexibility. You want to be able to cut or peel the mold away from the cement. Rigid plastic is a nightmare to get off if you don’t use enough release agent. Spray everything with oil. Everything.
Project 6: The Polished Finish (If You’re Feeling Fancy)
Most of the time we love the raw matte look. But sometimes, you want that high-end, terrazzo-style shine. It’s easier than you think.
The Grind
After your cement piece is fully cured (wait a full 3 days for this one), you can wet-sand it.
- Dip it in water.
- Use high-grit sandpaper (400 to 1000 grit).
- Sand in circular motions.
The water keeps the dust down and helps polish the surface. Keep going until it feels like glass. Then, you can seal it with a concrete sealer or even rub it with a little mineral oil to darken the color and bring out the depth. It goes from “basement floor” to “marble countertop” real quick.
Getting the Mix Right
Here’s where a lot of folks get tripped up. You can’t just eyeball it and hope for the best.
- Too Dry: It’ll crumble like a stale cookie.
- Too Wet: It’ll take forever to set and might crack as the water evaporates.
I use a simple scale. 3 parts cement to 1 part water by volume is a good starting point. Mix it thoroughly. Scrape the bottom of the bowl! You don’t want dry pockets. And for the love of all that is holy, mix outside or in a well-ventilated area. This stuff is fine and gets everywhere.
Sealing the Deal
You don’t have to seal cement. A lot of people love how it naturally patinas over time. It gets darker, maybe a little stained, and tells a story.
But if you’re using these for candles, wax will inevitably drip onto the surface. On unsealed cement, that wax will soak in and leave an oily stain.
If you want to keep them pristine, use a water-based concrete sealer. Brush it on, let it dry. It won’t change the color much, but it’ll make wiping off wax drips a breeze.
Wrapping This Up
So there you have it. Six ways to turn a bag of grey dust into something that looks like it belongs in a gallery (or a really chic loft). The best part? If you mess up, just smash it and try again. That’s the beauty of working with cement—it’s cheap, it’s forgiving, and it always looks cool, even when it’s broken.
Have you tried working with cement before? Got a crazy mold idea using a kids toy or a kitchen container? Drop it in the comments—I’m genuinely curious to see what weird stuff you guys shove cement into. 😉
Happy making, friends!
